Hormonal acne, cystic acne, sunburns, and more—adolescents and young adults alike can all struggle with skincare concerns brought on by a variety of causes. Many teens, especially teenage girls, have taken to creating elaborate skincare routines to help battle current issues and prevent other issues from arising. However, most teens do not need a 10-step skincare routine or expensive products. Some products may even be irritating for younger skin and make their skin more susceptible to sun damage. 

Understanding tween and teenage skin

From the age of 10 all through the early 20s, tween and teenage skin undergoes many changes that can contribute to developing acne. These changes include hormonal changes from increased androgen levels that lead to enlarged sebaceous or oil glands, overactive sebaceous glands that lead to excess oil, and bacteria that can cause inflammation and mix with dead skin cells and clog hair follicles, leading to acne. Other contributory factors to acne in teens include genetics, diet, stress, environmental factors, medications, and cosmetic products that might clog pores.  

Skincare for teens and tweens should be simple

Even with all the hormonal and stress factors, young skin doesn't need a complex skincare routine. Most adolescents can get by with three steps for clear, clean skin.

Gentle cleansing

A cleanser that is gentle and non-comedogenic (meaning a product that doesn't clog pores) will remove dirt, oil, and makeup, if any, without stripping the natural skin barrier. Washing your face in the morning and before you go to bed is all you really need.

Light moisturizing

Young skin generally has more moisture, naturally, than older skin, so most young people don't need heavy moisturizers. Even if you're dealing with oily skin, a lightweight, oil-free moisturizer helps lock in the skin's natural moisture and protect it. If you live in a colder or drier climate, you could use a slightly heavier moisturizer in the winter months.

Protecting against sun damage

Anyone of any age needs to apply SPF in the morning, and again throughout the day if you're outside a lot. A broad-spectrum SPF 30 is all you need for days when you'll be inside, such as going to school. Sunscreen protects against UV rays, which can cause skin cancer and lead to prematurely aged skin.

The dangers of over-complicated skincare routines

Social media might have you believing that you need a very involved skincare routine for maximum impact. The problem is that most of the skincare routines that tweens and teens may be following are designed for older skin, which has naturally incurred more damage over the years. 

Over-doing the skincare at a young age can cause more problems than it solves. Younger skin is more delicate, and some ingredients in skin products can irritate the skin, making it more sensitive to sun damage or redness. Exfoliants, astringents, and unnecessary acne treatments can strip the skin of the natural oils that protect it. Once the natural oils are stripped or the skin is damaged, younger skin will become more prone to breakouts and acne, not less. 

How to treat teenage acne

For most people, simple spot treatment is all you need. A cream with benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid works fine. Small pimple patches can also be used for minor breakouts but may not be the best choice for longer-lasting concerns. 

Once a week, a gentle exfoliating product can be used to help remove dead skin cells, which can clog pores. Products with glycolic acid or salicylic acid are good at exfoliating without damaging the skin. Avoid products with physical beads as these may cause further irritation in skin and worsen acne. If these OTC solutions are not helping clear or prevent acne, see your board-certified dermatologist for prescription treatments which may include prescriptions, topicals and/or oral medications. 

Tips to better skin for tweens and teens

Taking care of your skin is one of the best things you can do to take care of yourself overall. Creating a simple routine that leaves your skin feeling and looking its best is a great behavior that you can carry with you through life. There are a few things you can do without using products to help achieve healthy skin.

  1. Pay attention to your diet and hydration. A diet rich in fruits, vegetables, and lean proteins combined with plenty of water can nourish your skin from the inside out, and leave you feeling better overall, too.
  2. Watch your hands! Many of us touch our face throughout the day without realizing it. This can transfer dirt and bacteria to our skin, leading to breakouts.
  3. Make a consistent routine. Plan to cleanse skin, moisturize, and apply sunscreen first thing in the morning, or right after breakfast—any time before you leave the house. Set a time in the evening to cleanse again in the evening to remove the day's dirt and any makeup. Make this a consistent routine, and give products time to do their job, to reap the most benefits.

Still have skincare concerns?

Before heading to the drugstore or cosmetics store, make an appointment with your primary care doctor or a dermatologist. Some skin concerns could require medical attention and it's important to get the right medication at the right dosage.

Tiffany J. Libby, MD

Dr. Tiffany Libby is a dermatologist with Brown Dermatology at Rhode Island Hospital